best for last part 2 - Friday at LMFF

24.3.11

So, it's taken me a week to get to it, but let me tell you about the rest of my experience at LMFF, who looked good and who shouldn't have been taking up runway space.

Runway 5, featuring Aurelio Costarella, Collette Dinnigan, Dion Lee, Jayson Brunsdon, Scanlan & Theodore, Toni Maticevski & Willow:

WILLOW


Images courtesy of Willow

Willow hasn't shown in Australia for a number of years (too busy showing in New York!), and as I work for the label (as regional visual merchandiser) I was chuffed to see it open the show with the short film Lady into Cat, created to complement the Untamed Wisdom collection. Intricate draping in printed silk tulle and golden acid yellow (recognise the pleated skirt??) looked amazing on the catwalk and affirmed that Kit, the designer, truly has a unique vision.

Bias aside (I loved the label before I started working there!), Willow was really the only designer that stood out for me at Runway 5. If you follow me on Twitter you would have caught my running commentary during the show, and, I'm sad to say, it wasn't pretty. The biggest disappointment was Dion Lee, who has gone from garments that project an ethereal balance of structure and fluidity, boldness and subtlety, winning him the Woolmark Young Designer of the Year award (as shown at RAFW last year), to a simplistic shadow of his former self. His collection this year was supported by Pacific Brands, I wonder if that has anything to do with it?

Runway 6, featuring Alice McCall, Alpha60, Dhini, Gorman, Karen Walker, Kate Sylvester, Limedrop & Nevenka:

Just putting it out there - Runway 6 was smokin' (and about time too, I was starting to get depressed). I was actually engaged by (most of) the looks going down the runway and could see experimentation and innovation in the designs. I say MOST, because Kate Sylvester seemed to have been inspired by a basketball singlet and was hideous, and I can't really remember what Nevenka looked like at all...Anyway. My three favourites were:

DHINI


Images courtesy of Dhini

I was so proud to see Dhini opening this one! I interned with her last year and can say first hand that not only is she an incredibly exciting designer, she is one of the most hard working people I've ever met and deserves great things. Her AW11 collection Uzbeck displays her signature 'tailored drapery', modern-tribal digital prints and beautiful hand-worked cord embellishments. I cut out half the samples so it was pretty cool to see them, complete and as intended, on the catwalk.

ALPHA60


Images courtesy of Alpha60

Melbourne's favourite quirky-intellectual design due, Alpha60 is a label that has been really getting my attention lately. I'm not sure if it's because my taste has changed and I just appreciate what they do more now, but their simple-but-never-simplistic aesthetic seems especially refined this season. I like how the spot print looks like stingray skin and the house print looks like an Escher drawing, I like that they focus on silhouette and form, I like how easy to wear their pieces are. I really like Alpha60.

GORMAN


Images courtesy of Gorman

I'm the first to admit that Gorman has been slipping off the radar since being sold to Factory X (the company that also own Alannah Hill, Dangerfield and Jack London, among others) but Whoa! 360! Closing the show with a bang, Lisa Gorman as we used to know her is back and I'm very excited. Explosions of murky festival brights, clashing patterns (you know they're my favourite!), worry doll/pompom scarves and a mustard trenchcoat, I want all of this in my wardrobe and THAT is how fashion week should make you feel.

1 comment:

ms stephanie said...

I was also at Runway 6 and I loved seeing Gorman (those colours/the prints). Im a Alice McCall girl at heart so it was great to see what was on offer. Though I can't get over the use of orange and polka dots, which was very refreshing to see.

Love Ms Stef...